Freshly laid wood-look floor tiles with tile spacers in the open joints, ready for grouting
Material calculators

Grout calculator

Grout consumption depends on the tile size and the joint, not just the floor area — a small tile with a wide joint uses far more than a large tile with a narrow one. This calculator turns your area, tile dimensions and joint size into the pounds — and number of bags — of grout to order.

Calculate the quantity

How much grout do you need?

Enter the floor area, the tile's length and width, the joint width and its depth (the tile thickness). The result already includes a 10% mixing and application loss.

ft²
in
in
in
in

Default value – replace it with the manufacturer’s figure.

lb/gal
lb
$

Optional – shows the material cost for the rounded-up amount.

You need

Enter the area, tile size and joint dimensions to see the quantity.

The result updates as you type – no button to press.

Quantity = area × (L+W)/(L×W) × joint width × joint depth × density, +10% loss.

The joint depth defaults to the tile thickness; a deeper bed of adhesive under the tile does not add to the grout figure, only the visible joint does.

Measuring the joint

  • Joint width is set by the tile spacers you use — commonly 1/16 to 1/8 in for rectified porcelain, 1/8 to 3/16 in for standard ceramic, and wider for rustic or handmade tiles.
  • Joint depth equals the tile thickness, because the grout fills the gap from the surface down to the adhesive bed — a 3/8 in tile gives a 3/8 in deep joint.
  • Measure the actual tile you are laying, not the box label: cut length and width to the nearest 1/32 in, since the formula is sensitive to tile size.
  • Grout density varies by product (roughly 12.5 to 15 lb per gallon); use the figure on your bag's data sheet if it differs from the calculator's default.

Consumption by tile and joint size

Approximate grout consumption per 100 sq ft for a few common combinations, at 13.4 lb per gallon density and a 3/8 in joint depth:

Tile size / joint widthApproximate consumption
12×12 in, 1/8 in joint≈ 7.2 lb per 100 sq ft
24×24 in, 1/8 in joint≈ 3.6 lb per 100 sq ft
8×8 in, 3/16 in joint≈ 16 lb per 100 sq ft

What this calculator does — and does not

It does

Work out the pounds and bags of grout for the visible joints, from your area, tile dimensions, joint width and depth.

It does not

Plan the tile layout or work out the adhesive underneath — Autolay's planner does that from your floor plan. The planner also estimates the grout for the whole plan from the chosen product's coverage per bag; this calculator refines that figure by tile size, joint width and joint depth.

From the calculator to clean joints

Worked example with the calculator's defaults: a 20 m² (215 sq ft) bathroom floor, 300 × 300 mm (12 × 12 in) tiles, 3 mm (1/8 in) joints, 8 mm (5/16 in) deep. 20 × (300 + 300) / (300 × 300) × 3 × 8 = 3.2 liters of joint volume; × 1.6 kg/l = 5.1 kg; + 10 % loss = 5.6 kg, so 2 bags of 5 kg. A typical manufacturer data sheet works with about 1.5 kg/l and no loss and lands at 4.8 kg, one bag. Buy the second bag anyway: it covers the loss, a joint that turns out deeper, and a later repair in the same color batch.

  1. Measure the joint, not the box

    Width comes from the spacers (1 to 3 mm for rectified porcelain, 3 to 5 mm for standard ceramic, 8 to 10 mm for split tile and terracotta). Depth is the tile thickness minus the adhesive that rises into the joint: rake the joints out evenly to tile depth right after setting, as manufacturer data sheets ask, leaving at least two thirds of the tile depth free for grout. With 5 mm joints instead of 3 mm, the example above needs 9.4 kg, still 2 bags of 5 kg.

  2. Choose joint width and grout

    Cement grout of class CG2 WA (EN 13888: improved, low water absorption, high abrasion resistance) covers living rooms, kitchens and bathrooms. Fine grout suits joints up to about 5 to 6 mm, coarse grout wider joints; current manufacturer data sheets rate one product for 1 to 10 mm and another for 2 to 20 mm. In the United States, unsanded grout is limited to joints of 1/8 in or less. Epoxy grout (class RG) is for commercial kitchens, pools and joints that must resist acids; it is sold in buckets by kit weight and needs its own data sheet figure.

    A small room with white wall and floor tiles and contrasting red grout lines, showing an even joint grid
  3. Wait for the adhesive

    Grout only on set adhesive. Current grout data sheets give 24 hours on floors laid with normal adhesive, 3 to 4 hours with fast-setting adhesive, 4 to 8 hours on walls. A typical flexible adhesive is ready for grouting after about 8 hours. Remove spacers, vacuum the joints and switch off underfloor heating during grouting and for at least 24 hours after.

  4. Mix small batches

    Pour the water into a clean bucket first, then the powder: a typical fine grout takes about 1.15 liters per 5 kg bucket (0.95 to 1.35 l depending on color) and 3.45 liters per 15 kg sack. Mix with a slow paddle until free of lumps, let it ripen about 3 minutes, stir again. Mix only what you can work within the working time: about 40 minutes for one product, 20 to 25 minutes for another.

  5. Work the grout in

    Press the grout into the joints with a rubber float held at about 45 degrees, moving diagonally across the joints so the float edge does not dig them out. Fill the joints completely, then pull the excess off diagonally with the float on edge. Leave the joints at walls, corners, door thresholds and around the bath open for silicone: they are movement joints.

    A rubber grout float presses dark grout diagonally into the joints of light floor tiles
    Photo: public domain, via Wikimedia Commons
  6. Wash off at the right moment

    Wait until the grout has firmed up (finger test: it no longer sticks); data sheets give 15 to 30 minutes. Wash diagonally with a barely damp hydro sponge or sponge board, rinsing it often. Once dry, take off the haze with a slightly damp sponge or a dry cloth. Light foot traffic after about 2 to 3 hours depending on the product, full use after 24 hours.

  7. Buy from one batch

    Grout color varies slightly from one production batch to the next. Buy all bags at once and check the batch number printed on each; keep one partly used bag for repairs. Store sacks dry: one manufacturer gives 12 months for 23 kg sacks, another at least 6 months for sacks and 12 months for buckets.

    Close-up of white wall tiles where a white and a gray grout meet, the color difference clearly visible in the joints
    Photo: Juan de Vojníkov, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Calculator against the manufacturer's table

Grout per m² for the four reference cases printed in a current manufacturer data sheet for fine cement grout, next to this calculator with 1.6 kg/l and its 10 % loss. The calculator runs 17 to 21 % above the data sheet, which is the reserve you buy.
Tile, joint width × depthManufacturer data sheetThis calculatorOne 5 kg bag covers
300 × 300 mm, 5 × 8 mmabout 0.40 kg/m²0.47 kg/m²about 10.6 m²
200 × 200 mm, 5 × 8 mmabout 0.60 kg/m²0.70 kg/m²about 7.1 m²
Mosaic 50 × 50 mm, 2 × 6 mmabout 0.70 kg/m²0.84 kg/m²about 5.9 m²
Split tile 240 × 115 mm, 8 × 10 mmabout 1.50 kg/m²1.81 kg/m²about 2.8 m²
600 × 600 mm, 3 × 8 mmnot listed0.14 kg/m²about 35 m²

Tools and materials

ItemQuantity
Grout, one color batchcalculator result, rounded up to whole bags (2, 5, 15, 23 or 25 kg; 10 or 25 lb in the United States)
Rubber grout float1 per worker
Hydro sponge or sponge board, plus a second bucket of clean water1 set
Bucket and slow paddle mixer on a drill1
Joint scraper or raking tool for adhesive in the joints1
Nitrile gloves; cement grout is alkaline1 pair per worker
Sanitary silicone in a matching color for corners and wall joints1 cartridge (310 ml) per 8 to 12 m of joint

Common mistakes

  • Too much water in the mix

    How to spot it: Pale, powdery joints that scratch out with a key; cracks along the tile edge

    Fix: Keep to the water amount on the bag. Rake out weak joints at least two thirds of the tile depth and regrout.

  • Washing off too early or too wet

    How to spot it: Joints sit hollow below the tile edge, grout washed out of the joints, uneven color

    Fix: Wait for the finger test, wring the sponge out well, work diagonally. Fill hollow joints with fresh grout from the same batch.

  • Grouting the movement joints

    How to spot it: Hairline cracks along walls, in corners and at the bath edge after the first heating season

    Fix: Scrape grout out of wall and corner joints and fill them with silicone.

  • Mixing a whole sack at once

    How to spot it: The grout stiffens in the bucket before the floor is done

    Fix: Mix only what you work within the 20 to 40 minute window; never add water to stiffening grout.

  • Bags from two batches

    How to spot it: One part of the floor has visibly lighter joints

    Fix: Check batch numbers before you open the first bag; buy everything at once.

When to call a professional

Grouting is the most forgiving step of a tiling job, and a careful hobby worker gets a clean result on a normal floor. Call a tiler where a mistake costs a floor, not a weekend:

  • Showers, wet rooms and balconies, where the waterproofing under the tiles must be finished and tested first
  • Epoxy grout: short working time, hard to clean off, mistakes stay visible
  • Polished natural stone and unglazed tiles that can stain from colored grout
  • Large areas with very narrow joints of 1 to 2 mm on rectified porcelain
  • Old joints with mould or cracks across many tiles, which point to a moving subfloor rather than a grout problem

Frequently asked questions about grout

How much grout do I need per 100 sq ft?

It depends heavily on the tile size and joint width: a 12×12 in tile with a 1/8 in joint uses roughly 7.2 lb per 100 sq ft, while a large 24×24 in tile with the same joint uses about half that, around 3.6 lb per 100 sq ft. Smaller tiles have proportionally more joint length per 100 sq ft.

What is the exact formula the calculator uses?

Pounds = area × (tile length + tile width) / (length × width) × joint width × joint depth × grout density × 0.623, with the area in square feet, every tile and joint dimension in inches and the density in pounds per gallon; the 0.623 turns square feet times inches into gallons. A 10 % loss is then added for mixing and application.

Why does joint depth matter as much as joint width?

The joint is a channel, not a flat patch: its volume is width × depth × length. Depth normally equals the tile thickness, so a thicker tile with the same joint width uses proportionally more grout, just like a wider joint would.

How many bags is that, and how does it round?

The calculator divides the total pounds by your bag size and always rounds up to a whole bag, because you cannot buy part of a bag. With a 10 lb bag and a small bathroom this is often just 1 bag.

Is the calculator free and does it run in the browser?

Yes. It runs entirely in your browser, free and without signing up, and nothing is sent to a server. Enter the area, tile dimensions, joint size and bag size to see the pounds and number of bags.

Planning the tile layout

Before you grout, the free Autolay planner works out the tile count, cut pieces and waste from a photo of your floor plan, an IFC building model or a 3D scan.

Start planning

What the finished plan looks like

Laying plan of a 2.2 × 1.8 m room in grid: whole pieces filled, the 6 cut pieces hatched.
Whole pieceCut piece (hatched)

Small bathroom 2.2 × 1.8 m, grid: 12.5 % waste: every piece laid by the planner, the cut ones hatched.

See all 20 example plans →

Open this room in the planner